In the runup to the newly opened Williamsburg BBQ joint Fette Sau, the best part was how well the name lent itself to a certain K-Fed song. (Fe-Fe-Fe-Fette Sau, Fette Sau!) I'd been chanting the refrain all week. But last night, when I found myself repeating a different refrain—as in "Why is this night different from all other nights?"—it was because I was ripping apart the rib cage of a deliciously smoked pig.