Yesterday we were invited to a Fort Greene dinner party by the Brooklyn Food Group, which features cuisine they like to call "free-range Brooklyn." As it turns out, those guys are wusses. Today's Times teaches that free-range Brooklyn is something much more exciting and darkly awesome. Meet Steven Rinella, there holding a cute little sparrow in his hand. That is, the hand that will later behead it and serve the still-twittering body to the likes of Jay "I Heart Jay McInerney" McInerney, Bill "I Heart Ramsay" Buford, and other foodie literati at, you guessed it, a Fort Greene dinner party.