Though Centro, that newish Italian place in the West Village, is already filled with desperate girls in their thirties, you can bet that when Daily News restaurant critic Danyelle Freeman walked in, she was immediately ID'd. As we've noted, she's been quite athletic in getting her face "out there." Guess what? Her review today says she thought the service was great and the food delicious. Now it bears mention that key to her argument as to why it's okay to plaster her mug around town like some sort of Neck Face tag is that "restaurants don't bring in a new chef or run out to get new ingredients just because they spot a critic." True enough, but mightn't they make sure she gets the best deviled eggs (a dish over which Freeman, on her blog, already mooned) or that the piccolini plate does in fact "move swiftly from the kitchen to the table," as she notes?

When we visited Centro, we noticed the apartheid system of service provided to the important and the ordinary. And when we visited Centro again last night, we were struck not only by the chilly service but also the freezing air. "There was cold air blasting in my face for most of the meal. Though our waitress was super nice it was beyond her control and the maitre d' was a total dick about it," coworker Doree Shafrir said via IM.

Now that might not have been a pleasant experience but it probably was an indicative one. You know, Danyelle Freeman, the Association for Food Journalists has a code of ethics for a reason.

[Photo: Eater]